Wednesday, December 14, 2011

La Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadaloupe

At midnight December 11, the bells at the local Templo in Comala began to ring crazily and the sound of firecrackers (cuetes) which had been popping all day became almost continuous. The church was so full that loudspeakers blasted the mass into the jardin. The celebration lasted all night, for many only concluding with the 5 o'clock morning mass.

I stayed at home and watched the celebrations in Tepeyac. This year about 5 million pilgrims congregated at the New Basilica in Tepeyac which is located just outside Mexico City, On television, the millions of pilgrims at the shrine of La Guadalupena began to sing Les MaƱanitas

New Basilica in Tepeyac

Las MaƱanitas Lyrics: I provide the traditional words in Spanish and English at the end of this post in case you happen to want to know what is being sung more or less The actual words are slightly different as is quite traditional.

Throughout Mexico people crowded the churches to sing, pray and generally celebrate this festival, the most important in their year as far as I can tell. Certainly Easter is more solemn; but since December 12, 1536 when Santa Maria Virgen through her spokesman Juan Diego performed her miracle of the roses and imprinting her image on Juan Diego's cloak (tilpa), the fiesta of the Virgen has become the most celebrated holy event in Mexico.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Registering my Car or Mastering Mexican Administration

Well, its been just over a month since I've been back in Colima Mexico. I've had a few more delightful Mexican experiences and I feel a need to share. But first, I found this lovely little video about Colima that I am going to link here. Watch as much of it as you want so you will understand why I love to live here. Then read my adventure, which is also why I love to live here in a perverse kind of way.

[This last about 9 minutes, watch as much as you want]

The Challenge of Registering my Car

The Problem
I bought a used car in Guadalajara, which is in a different state than Colima, before I left last spring. I knew that when I returned I would have to get the licence plates changed to Colima state where I live. I also sort of knew that this would involve doing something about changing the actual ownership registration to my name.

In the Beginning
I was not a complete innocent [or idiot] when I bought the car. I did get what I was assured were all the necessary papers demonstrating my ownership of the vehicle, some of them actually featuring my name. I also had insurance for the car in my own name and with my correct address. I knew where I had to go to take care of the business in Colima city.

What I Tried First

I thought the registration and licensing process might be time consuming and that I would have to wait in many lines but I didn't think that it would actually prove impossible for me to do myself. How wrong I was. I could provide you with the painful blow-by-blow [and if you see me any time soon and mention cars you may want to leave quickly before I get up my full head of steam].

Suffice it to say that time passed, I got many people involved, made several trips to the transportation authority, sat in several lines for several hours, phoned people, sent emails and faxes begging for missing pieces of information, and became very stressed before I finally gave in.

I knew what to do because, during the time I was waiting patiently in line one of the days I was trying to do the task myself with the help of a Mexican friend, I saw how the system actually worked. From time to time, a man would come in with a file, bypass the whole line and drop the file on the desk of the officer we were all waiting to see. Before the next person in line actually had their turn, the officer always took care of the file so discretely dropped on his or her desk. A few minutes later that same person would walk past again, say something to the officer and pick up the file and move on. My companion nodded to one of them as he swept past us and told me they were called coyotes. “Viva Mexico”, he added wryly.

While All This Was Going On

All this took time of course. While I was taking this time I did not have any licence plates on my car since I needed to have them with me to get new ones. I figured this meant I couldn't drive my car. Not so, my Mexican friends and advisors assured me. Just bring them along in the car. Or even if you don't, it doesn't really matter, you're not going to get stopped. I was rather nervous about this, but I took their advice when driving with them and so it proved. I was even waved through a couple of police road checks. What's the small matter of no licence plates, seemed to be the attitude. We have bigger issues on our minds.